Stretch Issues

It's funny....I've gotten so many "ooohs" and "ahhhs" because I've been sewing knits. Honestly, I never knew this was "no mans land" to so many! I just DID it, probably because I didn't know any better! I  used zig zag stitch, and bam- done! No need to finish the seams- LOVE IT. Fit is also easier with knits I think.  I really never had any problems until the recent ITY Stretch Jersey dress (see last post!)!
In hindsight, I do really love it, BUT...it did kinda kick my butt.

Here's the nitty gritty, if you care. If not, see you next post ;)

I DID use Zig Zag stitch on the inside (see pic below) seams, since they wouldn't show, but didn't want to zig zag the hems, etc, since this pattern would show the seam and look ugly.

Since the ITY jersey is a lot thinner and stretchier than what I've sewn before, I read up on different stretch stitch options for the neckline and hems, and here's what I tried and the result:

1. Straight stitch (stretching fabrics I went)- This worked OKAY....and I was able to make it work for the sleeves, but it did pucker here and there (read, I ripped out the stitches and did them a few times) For some reason when I started on the longer seams, this method started giving me really uneven, wobbly stitches and then...EWWWWW- stitches got all gathered and puckery- yuck! I might just have been stretching too much or not enough, but I just couldn't figure it out. When I loosened the tension it was better, but the stitches didn't feel secure, so I got frustrated and tried something else.

2. Stretch stitches built into my machine- NOT GOOD. Got all bunched up, so I didn't even mess with them. Maybe I should read my sewing machine manual...he he he.

3. Double needle (after researching and taking a trip to the store to buy one!) : NOT BAD!!!!

To use the double needle, I put two spools of thread on my machine (both threads get threaded the same way, then one thread goes in one needle, the other thread in the other). It was daunting, but I got it right the first time! Whoohoo!






Here's how the stitches look....BUT- what do you notice? The raised ridge? Apparently this is called "tunneling" and boy did I get tunnels! They bug me! Who knows, I might have outfits in my closet with TUNNELS, but I didn't like them and don't want them!

I played with the tension and finally got it a little flatter...(oops, ignore the start, I had it on zig-zag!)

I also read to try some stabilizer underneath the stitch to keep the fabric from stretching, etc, and I did try this, but didn't notice much difference, so I stopped messing with it, and really, this dress has LOTS of LONG seams, and that just seemed like TOO MUCH WORK (have I mentioned I am a lazy sewer person) (I just can't call myself a seamstress)  Anyway, I just used the pin in kind of stabilizer and probably should have tried this a little more, but I didn't.

Sooooo- in a nutshell, I did end up using the double needle, and it isn't BAD, but the edges still want to roll a little. It's hard to see in a pic, but it's sort of annoying. When you wear a garment, it's annoying when the edges of the neckline keep rolling (where the wrong side of the hem is showing!) See pics below...

 ANYWAY- since finishing my dress, I've been reading about fusible hem tape and gotten some advice on different fusible tapes to try. I searched in my fabric store, but ended up ordering some off e-bay. So next time I sew ITY or stretch something or other,  I'll be ironing some fusible tape on the raw edges, THEN double stitching! I am hoping for a nice neat, non-stretched out hemline!

Stay tuned for that exciting post! :) :) :)

Thoughts? Tips? Ideas?